! Under Construction, use at own risk !

Updated : Feb.17,1999

Message of the day :

Updated PCB layout in work (maybe end of this week), fixes will be:
- insufficient space for one or two of the capacitors,
- illegible PCB components markings
- PCB size 'over-optimized' for specific box, change to more 'squarish'.
- clip sync output to TTL level - seems to take some more time to fit the extra parts on the board; as a quick fix, put a ZPD 4.7 (4.7 V Z-Diode) between SG and ground at the POWER switch (ring to SG) and a 1k resistor between the SG output from the BOT PCB and the SG pad of the power switch to clip SYNCOUT to 4.7V :
(BOT SG)--1k--(POWER SG)--|ZPD4.7--(GND)
Done Feb 16:
- extra page with all small pics for easier printing/download

Multi-purpose Controller for LCD shutter glasses

( no pictures of the device yet, waiting for my photos getting developed - but the prototype works, honestly)


This controller is based mainly on the circuit by Thomas Schuhmann & Franz Krause. I added some improvements and simplifications (which I may have seen in other circuits, so credits go to all those nice people that contributed to the homebrew section at stereo3d.com ).
With some heavy redesign of the PCB, I made the whole stuff fit into a much smaller box.
All necessary parts together should cost not more than approx. 50 DM / 25 EUR / 30 US$.


The controller provides the following operating modes :
Additional features:
Improvements / changes w.r.t. the device by Thomas & Franz:
The controller is designed for 'stupid' LCD shutter glasses with a 3.5 mm stereo connector like the Woobo Cyberboy, where the three wires are :
        Left/Right LCD panel (tip/ring, or vice versa?), Common (base)

How to build :

Circuit and PCB Layout:

If you already own (or are willing to download the 4 MB free light/evaluation version of) EAGLE CAD,  you can download a ZIP archive with the EAGLE sources for the circuit schematics and PCB layout
Otherwise, files are available for download for

PCB manufacturing:

Since I don't know your printer, you will have to use a picture editor like Picture Publisher, MS Photopaint etc. to convert the PCB layout to your printer's resolution. I've had cases where the editor assumed a resolution of 96 dpi, which would give a ridiculously large image.
You can find a very easy way to put the layout onto the PCB (besides the traditional photographic method) for etching at this site :
If you have (access to) a laser printer, just print the layout as it is (i.e. mirrored) and iron the laser toner onto the (clean) copper side of the PCB. Then soak the paper with warm water until you can gently peel and rub it off until (almost) only the laser toner remains on the PCB.
For best results, print at least twice on the same page to get an extra thick toner layer (although it will be hard to get the prints exactly in the same place).
Normal printer paper (kind of) works, but may leave some paper fibres. I also tried coated Hi-Res inkjet paper, which seems to have finer fibres, but only does a little better job.
Instead of a laser printer, you can get the same result using a photocopier with an inkjet printout (but be aware that some copiers don't scale properly).
If you are used to make PCBs by photo-transfer, just print the board layout in original size on a sheet of overhead projection film (as recommended for your printer) and expose as usual (printed side to the PCB, so you can read the text).
Having etched the PCB, cut out the two parts along the inner thin lines. I had to cut out the lower left corners to get around the screw that holds my case together - that's why the black rectangles are there.
Drilling : 1.5mm ? for 3.5mm jack pins (4 holes, base pin bent around PCB edge), 0.8mm ? for all others. Enlarge holes for IC socket pins to 1.5mm on the components side (see below); put board on a metal plate to avoid drilling through the copper film.


The circuit is designed to consist of two PCBs, with the smaller one mounted on top of the other, connected by 5 vertical wires, five external switches and an external LED.
Since space is very limited, you should either
Crucial parts are also the 3.5mm stereo jacks, which must look like this to fit into the PCB (Hirschmann part No. PG203J). Note that the pins for the base contact have to be bent around the edge of the PCB to be soldered to their pads. In case you cannot find such jacks, you can also use ordinary 3.5mm stereo jacks for front-panel mounting and wire them to the PCB. In this case, you should cut the lower left edge of the TOP PCB only to have a place for drilling a hole in the BOT PCB for mounting the PCB stack to the box.
Holes for resistors are all 10mm apart, so there should be no problem for 1/4 W resistors. For capacitors, default distance is 7.5 mm, but try to get 10mm raster types for the 270n and 470n caps, since the 7.5mm types will be too wide and high. Some extra holes are available to allow 5, 7.5 or 10 mm raster sizes when other sizes are not available.
With all electronic parts soldered in place, now cut all pins and wire ends standing out on the copper sides of the PCBs as short as possible.
Next, you need five pieces of wire, approx. 2 cm in length (wire ends cut off the resistors should do). Solder them to the five square pads of the smaller PCB, standing out in full length from the copper side.
Before soldering the two PCBs together, you must solder 13 suffiently long thin isolated wires to the wirepads on the PCBs for connection to the switches, battery and LED (they will not be accessible any more afterwards). Remember which wire goes where, it may be hard to determine once the boards are joined.
Then you may join the two boards, putting the smaller board on top of the larger and carefully threading the vertical wires of the top board through the corresponding holes in the bottom board (also with square pads). Put them together as close as possible, then solder the wires to the bottom board and cut off any extra wire length from the bottom board's copper side. As soon as I get my pictures developed, you will find a picture of the stack here (not yet, sorry).
Next (if you haven't got one already), get a box that is large enough for the PCB stack, a 9V battery and the switches. Drill holes for the jacks on the PCB, the switches and the power LED and mount all parts in place. Wire and solder the switches, LED and Tantal Cap as shown in the componets drawing. Finally, solder the wires to the PCB stack to the corresponding terminals on the switches and LED.
If you now plug in your shutter glasses and power the device, the LED should light.
In page-flip or sync doubling mode, the glasses should flicker with a frequency of 20-30 Hz.
In direct-L/R-control mode, one of the LCDs should be dark, and you can change sides using the L/R toggle switch.


Operation :

Future Plans :


The circuit was designed with the Light version of EAGLE CAD from CADSoft.